How Should I Store My Coins? by GreenT47
How Should I Store My Coins?
By Robert L Taylor, JD
There are two concerns when discussing the storage of coins. First, the storage of the individual coin, and Second, the storage of a group of coins, or an entire collection.
Storage of a Coin Collection
The Environment of the entire Collection, or Group of Coins is the focus, taking into consideration Temperature, Humidity and Light. A relatively constant, moderate to low temperature and low humidity are preferable for long term storage of numismatic collectibles. Placing packets of silica gel, which absorbs moisture, in the coin storage areas helps control atmospheric humidity. The less light, the better; and absolutely no sunlight. This is why a safe or vault is ultimate storage container; because it controls Temperature, Light and Humidity, and provides Superior Safety.
Groups of Coins, or Collections are best stored in plastic coin boxes, such as sold by PCGS, NGC and Whitman, and which will hold 20, separated, “slabbed” coins. Another alternative is a cardboard coin storage box (single and double; red, blue or black), which stack easily on each other. Different sizes are available for slabs, as well as Vinyl and Cardboard Flips.
Storage of Individual Coins
Putting Individual coins into Holders is Imperative for all coins whose condition is BU and above, or MS60 and higher. Coins below these designations are considered “circulated” because they are found in the general circulation of money. Typically this will mean they are found in pocket change, or in rolls of coins purchased at a local bank. Although collecting Circulated coins is a great personal challenge for many collectors, the more serious Coin Collectors will concentrate on “Uncirculated” coins (BU+ and MS60+ ) because of their better condition (grade), value, and appearance.
Types of Containers or Holders.
Almost anything will do for coins with small or no numismatic value. A coin that is worth only face value, is not likely to have much numismatic value. while nearly airtight holders made of inert materials are a better idea for valuable coins.
Bags, jars and boxes are adequate for raw pocket change and circulated coins.
Paper Envelopes or Paper Flips of various sizes (usually 2 x 2) are still used for single coins. Be sure to use envelopes made explicitly for holding coins, otherwise your coins may change color (tone) over time due to reaction with sulfur or other chemicals present in the paper. Since the coin can not be seen, it is now out of favor with collectors.
Folders and Albums are sold primarily for series and type sets. Properly used, they offer moderate protection from wear and handling. Over the years coins may tone due to reaction with sulfur or other chemicals present in the folders and albums, and are therefore not a good choice for long term storage of higher grade coins. The coins are still exposed to light, air, chemicals and human touching. Albums have clear plastic covers over the coins, which slide in and out. This sliding action can leave unwanted and unattractive marks on the coin.
Plastic Flips are available in various materials. "Soft" flips were once made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which decomposed over time with disastrous results for coins; leaving a green appearance and substance. PVC flips are no longer made and sold. Mylar, vinyl and acetate flips do not contain PVC. While not airtight, they are reasonable choices for moderate value coins that will be "left alone" for multiple years.
Vinyl Pages (8 ½ x 11) which fit into a 3 ring binder. Well suited for Cardboard and Vinyl Flips, with great visability of coin obverse and reverse. This is a Great Favorite.
Mylar-lined Cardboard Flips, often called "2x2s" or cardboard flips. At one time, the most preferred and commonly used. but also available in other sizes, are similar to plastic flips. A coin is placed between the two halves, which are then folded over and stapled together (some brands contain an adhesive). The boxes that they come in are ideal for multiple coin storage.
Tubes are plastic containers designed to hold a number of the same size coins. They come in different sizes for different coins. They are fine for bulk storage of circulated coins and are appropriate for higher grade Uncirculated, BU+ and MS60+ coins. A disadvantage is that the coins cannot be viewed without being removed from the tube.
Hard Plastic Holders are preferable for more valuable coins. They are self sealing, and not known to contain any materials that harm coins and offer good protection against scratches, touching and handling, air and chemicals, and other physical damage. They are available for individual and small sets of coins, and come in all sizes.
Slabs are Sonically Sealed hard plastic holders for individual coins. They offer Excellent protection. Because of the expense of having a coin slabbed, they are generally suitable only for more valuable coins – i.e.: BU+ and MS60+ Coins.
Although generic slabs are available, most often, a slab will be seen holding a coin that has been Professionally Certified and Graded - which has tremendous advantages. The biggest advantage is when buying a coin on the Internet or by phone. You know what you’re getting. A coin Certified and Graded by one of the “Top Four” gives reliability, assurance and security. A big advantage over the scam sellers of raw coins, and non-conforming grading companies.
Have fun collecting your Perfect Coins!
Robert L Taylor, JD
Copyright 2006
Robert Taylor is a 59 year old retired Lawyer, from Denver, CO, who spent most of his career representing people who could not afford an attorney, and who has had a passion for collecting US coins, since the age of 6. Wanting to share his Passion, he created http://www.ThePerfect-Coin.Com which features US Rare and Modern Dollars (from 1878) and Coins (from 1960), all Certified and Graded by NGC, PCGS, ICG and ANACS.
Article Source: www.coin-articles.com
 
| How To Value Collectible Coins by Lee Dobbins
Coins have been always been a part of our country's history. Prominent people are featured on them. A change of government is sometimes accompanied by a change of currency. The look and feel of these coins reflects the advancements in technology as scientists find more complex metal combinations.
Coins being of historical value is one of the many factors why people collect them. Beauty and variety also contribute to the collector's growing numbers.
To be a collector, you must be aware of how to ascertain the worth of your coins. Who knows, you might just be holding on to a very rare artifact, or one that would cost millions on an auction or bidding.
First step in being a coin collector is to look up literature. You need to be in the know of what coins are available out there, where to get them and how to get them. This is extremely valuable to one who'd see the coins as a form of investment.
You also need to determine four things before you take a coin to your collection. You need to identify them, have them authenticated and examine them for damage. This would be vital points to consider in collection coins.
To identify them, you need to look at your coins very thoroughly and note the shape, the colors, and the writings. You also need to verify which country issued that coin. If there is no denomination on the face of the coins, it's just a token or probably a medal.
Authentic coins should be treasured and prized. They're hard to find, especially if they are rare, limited issues. A lot of fakes and counterfeit coins are available in the market, so beware!
The value of your coin will depend upon its grade. Coin catalogs usually have their own, specific grading guidelines but here's a general list of them.
* Mint State Perfect Uncirculated (MS-70) is an uncirculated coin. It should show no apparent damage and be in top shape. It is considered to be the best quality of coin possible.
* Uncirculated (MS-60) is another uncirculated coin having a few scratches on contact marks and that have lost some of its sheen.
* About Uncirculated (AU-50) is a coin which has evidence of light wear on most parts but still retains at least half of its original sheen.
* Extremely Fine (EF-40) is coin wherein the coin design is lightly worn off but the features can be still distinguished and are still quite sharp.
* Very Fine (VF-20) is another coin wherein some of fine details like hair or eyebrows are mostly worn off. There is evidence of modest wear on some points of the design but all major parts are still clearly etched.
* Very Good (VG-8) is a coin wherein even though the rim is still clearly visible, the design is almost worn off and only few details of it are clear.
* Good (G-4) are coins that are heavily worn but the design and the legend are still visible. Much of the details are gone.
* About Good (AG-3) are coins that are very heavily worn that some of the lettering and the original design are not discernible anymore.
Damaged coins come across frequently in the course of a collector's quest. Most collectors steer off coins that have undergone cleaning or re-polishing. Corroded, scratched and drilled into coins are also a big turn off. Although it's sometimes hard to find one, it's better to find an untampered specimen.
The question on most beginners minds is this: How much do I get paid for a particular coin. The answer is: It varies everywhere. It depends on the qualities of the coin as well as the guide the buyer is using. For a general idea of pricing, here's a quick list.
1. U.S. wheat cents (1958 and earlier) that were in circulation goes for a few cents to 3 dollars each.
2. 1943 "steel pennies are very uncommon and of high value 1943 cents set on a normal bronze planchet. They are tested to determine if it attracts magnets and if so, it is plated using copper. They are sold for 5 to 50 cents if circulated, and up to a dollar or two if not in circulation.
3. Silver dimes, quarter and half dollars from 1964 or earlier are composed of almost 90% silver. So their amount depends on their silver content.
4. Silver dollars from 1935 and up are collector favorites and can be usually be sold for more than their value in silver . The less common the date, the higher the pricing goes.
5. Susan B. Anthony dollars are worth about one dollar.
6. Bicentennial quarters, half and dollars are usually worth what's on their face value.
7. Coins in commemoration of the wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana are spotted to cost from $5 to $30.
8. A coin with two heads, tails or those that have different designs of two coins have no value to collectors because they are coins that have been change to introduce a novelty item.
There are also the kinds of coins that are made by mistake. These are called 'mules' and are often produced because of an error in pairing different dies. Expect rare coins like these to cost a little higher than most.
So with these things in mind, have fun in making your own collection grow. Who knows what part of history you'll discover by finding rare specimens.
Lee Dobbins writes for http://collecting.leisure-webzone.com where you can learn more about coins and other antiques and collectibles.
Article Source: Free Web Articles
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